‘The day I got lost in Iran’

Josh Cahill travelled around Iran. Source: Supplied

WHAT first springs into your mind at the mention of Iran?

Do you imagine spectacular scenery and encounters with some of the friendliest people in the world?

Well that's exactly what traveller and blogger Josh Cahill experienced during a visit to the troubled and o ften misunderstood country. Josh, a German nomad who used to live in Australia and has travelled to more than 60 countries, says his time there was truly life-changing.

Here's his story of how his initial trepidation upon getting lost in Iran ended up turning into joy.

Today I want to share a really inspiring story about my time in the Middle East, about the generosity of the Iranian people and how important trust can be.

It was a really nice April morning (last year), the sky was clear and sun was shining. Iran's capital was getting ready for the national elections and I was packing my backpack. It was one of those days where I thought, "Today I'm leaving my fate in God's hands".

I had no money, no plan and I started hitchhiking with no real destination in mind. A rough idea then came to me, to take a bus from Tehran to Tabriz and from there try to get a lift to Ankara somehow. Well as I said I had no idea what to expect and where I was going to stay or sleep in the following days.

I said goodbye to my host Reza, the coach of the Iranian National Paintball team, and walked to the metro station. I was the centre of attention and at that moment I felt like the only foreigner in one of the biggest cities in the world.

I jumped on the train and I stood between the gate, which separated the male section from the female section. The half-covered women were waving to me and I remember feeling very uncomfortable. Wasn't that a sin here? Am I in danger now? What if someone sees and says that I broke the law and flirted with them? Well, I guess people just do what they always do regardless of religion or culture right?! I decided to smile back and then continued to stare at the floor.

I arrived at the bus station hoping to find a bus to Tabriz, which is a few hours north of Tehran. The moment I walked in the station I began getting harassed by many young Iranians trying to sell me a ticket. I simply said "Tabriz" and one guy walked me to my bus. The scenario was the same, everyone was staring at me. I kind of got used to it.

Everyone offered the seat beside them, what a nice gesture.

All aboard ... everyone offered me a seat next to them. Source: Supplied

I wasted half the day getting to the bus station and the trip was going to take at least six hours. The guy sitting next to me was very keen to share the videos on his phone with me. It started off with some funny footage about random stuff but after a while he swapped to some adult movies. I don't mind watching porn, but with a hairy dude on a bus to Tabriz? I declined politely and he returned to his seat.

I saw a sign saying that it was only 70 kilometres left to Tabriz. The sun was about to set and I still had no idea what I was going to do. The bus then exited the highway and approached its final destination. I walked around and tried to figure out if there were still any buses leaving for Turkey or at least close to the border, but there weren't. By the time I figured that out it was dark.

I was really keen to spend the night anywhere but the bus stop, so I bought a few cookies and water and ask for some cardboard from the vendor. I grabbed my markers in my backpack, and made a sign saying "Turkey".

An Iranian woman goes about her business. Source: Supplied

I had no idea what I was doing but decided to walk along the highway in the hope of getting a lift to Turkey. Imagine how stupid that was, as if a car would stop in the middle of the highway, plus you could barely see me because it was so dark.

I had no Plan B but I was super optimistic that something would work out. After half an hour of walking a motorbike slowed down and a guy without a helmet asked me something in Farsi. He didn't speak any English and I had no clue what he was saying. I tried to explain to him somehow that I want to go to Turkey. He seemed like a local so I don't think he was going anywhere close to where I wanted to go. But he motioned for me to get on the motorbike, and I did!

The village of Kandovan near the border town of Tabriz. Source: Supplied

So there I was, sitting on a total stranger's motorbike in the middle of the night. Why would I trust a stranger who didn't understand a word I'd said? Well I had nothing to lose and if he wanted to kill me, that was bad luck for me then. I felt the warm wind on my face as we drove on and I was actually getting excited about all of this. Maybe he knew someone that was driving to Turkey? We got to a street with a lot of Turkish trucks, all lined up waiting to head back to their home country. It was the perfect spot to get a lift. I jumped off the bike and I wanted to say thank you to the guy, but he had already disappeared just as quickly as he had appeared earlier.

I checked the numberplates of the trucks and they were all from Istanbul and Ankara. It seemed like my lucky day. But as I tried to find someone to give me a lift I realised very quickly that they were all asleep. I checked about 20 vehicles and had no luck.

It was a long street in the suburbs of Tabriz, and there was nothing but trucks and a little checkpoint with an Iranian soldier holding a Kalashnikov (rifle). He wasn't of any help and actually seemed quite bored. Yeah ... so I was lost again.

Stunning Tehran, the largest and most cosmopolitan city in Iran. Source: Supplied

I saw a bunch of taxi drivers and tried to negotiate a good rate but none of them were keen to go that far. It was past midnight already and the long day of travelling, walking and hitchhiking had taken its toll. I was feeling tired and annoyed. I walked a bit further down the road and sat down on the concrete. I took a deep breath and had a look around. I leaned back and watched the sky. It was a beautiful night and I started to enjoy myself.

"What an adventure," I thought to myself. I simply love having endless possibilities. There was no need to be sad or disappointed because I knew there were awesome moments to come. I love life and that's why I became a nomad, exactly for these kind of moments.

Josh says Iran is one of the most misunderstood countries on the planet Source: Supplied

Suddenly a young guy joined me and offered me a drink that tasted like off milk. He looked like a young student, was well groomed and seemed nice. Unfortunately he didn't speak English and our conversation was more based on signals and gestures rather than words. He appeared to be saying that he was waiting for a bus close to the Turkish border. He offered for me to join him and stay at his place. I agreed. By then it was 2am in the morning and then suddenly an old green Mercedes bus arrived.

We jumped on the bus and I fell asleep right away. An hour later I woke up in a little town called Maku. According to my new friend, we were very close to the Turkish border. He invited me to stay at his house and I gladly accepted. It was a very simple place which he shared with his parents. We stayed the night in an empty room which had only a carpet and two massive cushions, one of which became my bed, to my joy. I dropped my backpack in the corner and fell asleep once again.

Josh makes a new friend for life. Source: Supplied

A few hours later I woke up. The sun was shining through the window and onto my face. I stepped out the door into the front garden and couldn't believe what I saw in front of me. The 5000 metre-high Ararat Mountain was right there at the horizon. It was one of the most magnificent views I've ever woken up to, and one of the most amazing gifts from mother nature. The mountain was located in Turkey so I knew the border couldn't have been that far. I went back inside, pleasantly surprised.

My host, whose name was Behzad by the way, walked in with a tray holding some pita bread, eggs, butter, a little bit of cheese and a cup of tea. Even though we weren't able to communicate properly, it seemed like we had already become friends. It was such a nice gesture and I would have never had the chance to experience such hospitality if I didn't trust him and stay at his place. Life can be awesome and this moment was truly a memorable experience.

I asked for a bathroom and he pointed to the little shelter in the garden. It was literally a hose and hole in the ground. Well, that would do. I was about to pack my backpack when a guy in a car just in front of the door honked like there was no tomorrow. Behzad and I walked out and it was one of his friends. He looked like an IT student with big glasses and long curly hair. He told me to get into the car and then we were off.

Mount Ararat, the fabled resting place of Noah's ark. Source: Supplied

Once again, I left my life in his hands. I wasn't afraid. All I felt was contentment and satisfaction. Yes, I was high on life! I felt blessed to be there and to be able to experience such an adventure. I was lost somewhere in Iran but I was surrounded by the most warm-hearted and generous people. It doesn't take much to make me happy and this moment was something special. I hadn't come across a westerner in weeks and I kind of loved it.

The streets became busier and I saw more and more cars with Turkish numberplates. I assumed they were taking me to the border. I was right. His friend dropped Behzad and I off at a little village just next to the checkpoint between Iran and Turkey. The scenery was stunning. Mount Ararat was just a few kilometres away and its snow covered peaks was surrounded by clouds.

It was time to say goodbye. Even though we weren't able to communicate properly, Behzad and I became friends. He helped me and took care of me. I was very grateful. I reached for my wallet and I wanted to give him the small amount of Rial I had left. He declined even though I insisted. But he had no intention of taking any money. I asked him if there was anything I could do for him and he said no. I think he was happy just to be able to help and believed in the same philosophy as I do, and as I always say "your life will become better, by making others' lives better".

I walked off to the border. My passport was stamped and I entered Turkey. There was nothing around except for Mount Ararat and a lot of trucks passing by. So I stood there, 1200km to go to Ankara. While I waited for a lift I thought of how amazing my experience with Behzad had been. Behzad knew from the very first second he met me that he was going to help me, he had not doubt. This was truly inspiring and many of my experiences in Iran were like this. It's a country that is unfortunately poorly judged and disregarded by a lot of people.

So what have I learnt? I don't think that I've ever experienced such generosity or hospitality while I was travelled in America, or even in Europe or other parts of the world. It showed me how quickly we judge and how we can blindly believe in everything the media tells us. But my view about Iran changed.

The Iranian people were kind to me and they went the extra mile to make my life better. Thank you for the experience and I can proudly say that Iran is one of the most beautiful places on Earth.

Read more of Josh's travel stories at his blog gotravelyourway.com and Twitter. Please note, that Australians have been advised to exercise caution when travelling to Iran, read the latest travel advice here.

Sheik Lotfollah mosque. Source: Supplied

Persepolis, Iran. Source: Supplied

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